Back to Basics...We answer your most common skincare questions
Monday 14th May 2018
This week we are answering some of the most frequently asked skincare questions, and debunk some of the most common skincare myths...
"There's no need to cleanse everyday"
Daily cleansing is important and best at night for the removal of debris such as dead skin cells, sebum and make-up. Cleansing should maintain the skin's acid mantle but also increase the skin's ability to be receptive to beneficial active ingredients. Look for ingredients such as jojoba seed oil and olive oil esters and hydrolysed oats which deeply hydrate the skin. Also, vitamin B5 (panthenol) which helps to calm and heal the skin and reduce redness.
"Any cleanser will do. Water and soap. Even facial wipes."
Clients often strive for a 'squeaky clean' feeling by using frothy, over lathering cleansers. However, these types of cleansers strip the skin of its moisture and cause redness or irritation. Use low foaming cleansers with ingredients such as decyl-glucoside, as this is a lathering agent that is much gentler and cleanses the skin without disturbing the acid mantle.
Facial wipes are simply a no, because the common ingredient is alcohol, which has a tendency to sensitise the skin.
"Cleansing should include using a facial brush"
Facial brushes are exfoliators and damage the all -important stratum corneum. Des Fernandes explains "it strips the skin of the important horny layer that is extremely thin - just 0.2 mm thick - and our only protection against the surrounding world". Aggressive or excessive exfoliation can compromise the health of the protective barrier resulting in an increase in sebum secretions.
If clients with oily skin are inclined to reach for a facial brush as part of their cleansing routine, advise that they will benefit more from introducing an oil based cleanser and a 'double cleansing' routine using a pre-cleansing oil with ingredients such as coconut oil triester which helps to remove excess oil debris.
"I don't need a toner"
As the skin is very thin, a toner should always be viewed as a treatment. It balances the skin's natural pH levels after cleansing and prepares the skin to be more receptive to active ingredients such as Vitamin A. Toners including other active ingredients such as niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3) will lighten pigmentation, while peptides such as Matrixyl® 3000 will enhance the production of collagen. Lactic acid will hydrate as well as correct uneven skin tone.
"I don't need to invest in a moisturiser. They all do the same thing"
Moisturisers have many benefits. They protect from environmental attack, soften and plump the skin. They also repair the damage from free radicals and other daily external stressors. In order to treat individual skin concerns, look for moisturisers that contain vitamin A, which is the crucial DNA regulator for 300-1000 genes and is known as the skin's normaliser. There is no alternative or equivalent to vitamin A for healthy skin
"Oily skin types don't need a moisturiser "
It's a common misconception that oily skin does not need a moisturiser. In fact, oily skin still needs to be hydrated. Using a vitamin A enriched moisturiser will help normalise sebum production. Look for products with ingredients like salicylic acid, lactic and glycolic acid which will help to balance and regulate skin moisture levels.
"I only need to moisturise in the morning"
Moisturisers applied during the day should provide antioxidants and active ingredients to protect against pollution and harmful UV rays. However, according to research new skin cells renew faster at night, so moisturisers applied before bed containing vitamin A and C, will work together to increase essential collagen formation and replace the depletion of vitamin A from light exposure and other environmental factors.
"I don't need to take supplements for my skin
Feeding the skin from within will also help keep skin healthy.
In a study by the Institute of Experimental Dermatology, a sample group was given an antioxidant supplement containing the phytonutrients lycopene, lutein, beta-carotene and selenium. After 10 weeks, skin density had increased by 7% and thickness had increased by 14%. Scaling and roughness decreased by 60% and 33% respectively.